There’s a lot of scary information floating around when a discussion regarding electricity is at hand. Some of it is very valid, and some might be considered a bit of an exaggeration. But one area we really like to nail home is the dangers of a power surge. These are frighteningly common, and present very real danger to both you, and to your electronics. Protect yourselves (and your investments!) by learning how to prevent surges, and how to mitigate the possible threat they pose. 

Generally speaking, power is always “surging” to a minor degree. Every time a machine kicks on, or you flip a switch, the course and amount of power in your home fluctuates slightly. But more specifically, what we call a power surge is a dramatic and large spike in the current of your home.

This spike is exceedingly brief (somewhere in the neighborhood of a thousandth of a second), but can carry some real risk. More often it carries a risk to your possessions than your person, but you put a lot of money into your investments. Protect them!

Protecting your home from surges is actually pretty simple. It just takes a little preparation, a minor investment and a little bit of your (or our!) time:

You probably noted how adamant we were about that last one. So what’s the big deal? We could note a bunch of anecdotes about how a friend of a friend regretted not getting one, but let’s stick to the facts. Like we said, surges happen all of the time. Most of these are caused just by the general goings-on of a household. Whole home surge protection is hands down the number one most effective method of keeping you and your home safe.

Without getting too technical, a whole home electrical surge protection system policies and assists in maintaining proper, safe currents in your home. Do you have to have one in your home? Not really, they aren’t code yet. Should you get one? Absolutely. Surges can cost you huge money, and whole home protection is a very cost-efficient safety measure.

Want to learn more about how the expert electricians at Kolb can help you and your home stay safe? Contact our team today!

The pool at your Tampa home is an excellent place to enjoy recreation, to relax, or even to host events and parties. But are you getting the most out of your pool design? The use of light can add not only dynamic appeal to your space, but provides a greater level of safety. Not to mention the fun of a nighttime pool party!

We, of course, love lighting. Layers of light help to brighten any space, highlight certain aspects of a room, and help set the mood. Justin Krutz, a blogger for Palatin Remodeling, sent us this guest post with interior design decorating tips to help you brighten your home beyond just lighting. Thanks Justin!

If you’re dying to install your new instructions for how to install a light bar. These instructions include options for installations with or without a wire harness and for connecting to existing LED lights. Installation will vary based on the type of vehicle, existing lighting setup, and chosen wiring method, but these instructions can serve to give you a general idea of the process. Light bar mounting instructions are also available and are listed by WH-DTS10, WWH-DTD30; (ATP) WH-ATPD20, sdoptional mounting brackets; be sure not to overtighten the hardware (you will need to adjust it in step 7).

3. Route the lighting side of the wiring harness from the battery to the light in a safe, secure manner. Connect the harness to the light. Be sure to avoid heat sources and any moving parts while running your wires. Prolonged chafing of the wires may lead to a short in the circuit. Typically, following the vehicle manufacturer’s wiring harness is a safe path to follow. Some lights may not have DT or ATP connections on them, but the connectors can be added from the harness kit or purchased separately (ATP-FPT).

4. Continue to route the switch portion of the harness to the desired location of the switch. The switch may need to be unplugged from the harness to make routing of the harness easier. An optional remote-controlled switch (RS-x) are also available with different legends.

5. Connect the black (ground) wire with the large ring terminal from the harness to the negative battery terminal. Connect the red (power) wire with the large ring terminal from the harness to the positive battery terminal.

6. Secure the relay to a suitable location, and test the light to make sure the circuit works.

7. Finally, aim the light in the desired direction, and tighten all mounting hardware.

3. Connect the black ground wire of the new light to the ground wire of the old light with solder and heat shrink tubing (PSC-x). Connect the red power wire of the new light to the power wire of the old light.

4. If the new LED work light or off-road light bar has an ATP or DT connector that you wish to utilize, corresponding ATP (DT-MPT) pigtails are available.

5. Finally, aim the lights in the proper direction, and tighten all mounting hardware.

1. Find a suitable mounting location that will allow for running wires and mounting the LED light bar. Mark where your holes will be for the light bar brackets or mounting feet. Check behind drilling locations to ensure nothing will be damaged. Drill appropriate-sized holes.

2. Mount the lights with the provided hardware or with DT-MPT or RRS-SP, RRS-SPx, or RCS-RF25A) under your hood to speed up install time and avoid routing wires through your vehicle’s firewall. Route another run of red wire from the pigtail adapter (connected to the light) to the output terminal of the switch. Be sure to avoid heat sources and any moving parts while running your wires. Prolonged chafing of the wires may lead to a short in the circuit. Typically, following the vehicle manufacturer’s wire harness is a safe path to follow.

4. Be sure to double-check for all obstructions and proper clearance. Drill an appropriate sized hole for the switch, and mount it.

5. Connect your black wire to the negative battery terminal. Connect your red wire to the switch input terminal and to the positive battery terminal with an appropriate-sized fuse holder (MAF-x) installed within 18 inches of the battery. You will have to cut your section of red wire to allow for the fuse holder to be installed between the switch and battery. Connect your other run of red wire to the switch output terminal.

6. Finally, aim the lights in the proper direction and tighten all mounting hardware.

Now that you have the holes for lamp sockets, we need to start wiring the lamp sockets.

Kevy, an eCommerce Marketing Automation ​company that specializes in automating and personalizing the shopping experience. ​ ​​Kevy gives online retailers the tools they need to help visitors find the products they care about most. When she is not at Kevy, Brooke and her husband Ryan love creating new projects and are always looking for a new DIY opportunity around the house.