There are two things that regulate the power circuits in your home: fuses and breakers. Breakers are designed to turn off when they are using too much power, as that will prevent the wiring in your home from burning out. Fuses serve much the same role, though they don’t trip — they simply burn out when they are overloaded. Knowing how to replace fuses and breakers is important, as it will help you to keep the power in your home on at all times.

See, quick and easy to replace both fuse and breakers! If you need an electrician in Austin to come out and help you repair electricity problems in your home, call Bryant Electric Service today at 512-402-8587. One of our friendly service members will answer any questions you may have!

If you have a breaker or several breakers that are tripping, there are some things you can do to keep it from happening. If you are not comfortable with trying to diagnose the problem, you can call The Electric Connection. We have skilled electricians who can certainly take care of the troubleshooting process for you.

Follow these troubleshooting guidelines from your electrician in Glendale to see if you can identify the problem.

1-Note what is plugged in when the breaker trips. It is possible the breaker is being overloaded. You will need to reduce the number of appliances running off of one breaker. Microwaves should be on their own outlet when possible. Do not resort to using several powerstrips that are completely loaded. This is another major draw and can overburden a breaker. If you need additional outlets or another breaker, give your electrician a call.

2-Your large appliances like the air conditioning unit, hot tub or dryer should all be on their own dedicated circuits. If this is not the case, call an electrician. Glendale homeowners will need the expertise of a certified electrician to take care of this situation.

3-Carefully check each appliance that is plugged in when the breaker trips. There may be an issue with the appliance or the wiring. Don’t use it anymore.

A breaker that trips often for no apparent reason should always be inspected by an electrician. It could be an indication of a bigger problem. Sometimes, the breaker will need to be replaced. In other cases, the electrical wiring to the outlet/s may be the issue. In any event, it is always a good idea to have an electrical inspection completed to check for any serious problems that could be a fire hazard. If you are interested in learning more about this, give The Electric Connection a call today.

LED sign lighting provides years of illumination and low energy costs. sign modules that consume 50mA of power each. Required materials differ depending on sign size, module size, length of wire between modules, current draw, and lumen output.

Materials:

1. First, measure your sign. Although we recommend spacing module rows 3 inches apart, it’s ultimately up to you. If you want a brighter sign, place them closer together and vice versa for a dimmer sign. With the recommended 3-inch spacing, a 4-foot square sign would need 150 modules (15 rows of 10). Again, the quantity of modules needed  is based on many factors and can differ.

These LED sign modules are available in custom lengths of up to 20 modules per strand. Order 60 feet (4 feet x 15 rows) of stranded modules, and cut the strand after every 10 modules. Each strand can be cut to make two rows.

2. Next you’ll need to order a power supply that’s rated for the combined wattage of all sign modules. To ensure that you don’t overwork the power supply, confirm that the total wattage of your modules is at least 20 percent less than the power supply’s rated wattage.

An easy way to calculate this is to multiply the total wattage of your combined lighting by 1.2. In the 4-foot sign diagram, there are 150 modules with a current draw of 50 milliamps (mA) each. Since current draw is given in milliamps, multiply that number by voltage and move the decimal 3 places to the left to get wattage. This module consumes 50 mA and has 12 VDC operation, so it consumes 0.6 watts (50 x 12 = 600). Next, multiply 0.6 by 150 to get a combined wattage of 90 and multiply that number by 1.2 (90 x 1.2 = 108) to determine which power supply you’ll need. Since the result was 108, you will need at least a 120-watt power supply.

3. Next on the list is wire to connect all your sign module stands to the power supply. For a 4-foot sign, you’ll need 4 feet of 18-gauge two-conductor wire to serve as your main line plus enough to cover the distance between your power supply and where it will be wired into an electrical system. You’ll also need dual-channel T-tap wire splice connectors for an easy connection to your main line.

Before you begin working on your sign, turn off power to the area.

4. If there isn’t one already, drill a hole in the back of your sign as an exit point for your wire.

5. Use a tape measure or ruler to plot your row spacing. Leave space on one side of the sign for your module-to-main-line connections. Mount the sign modules using their double-sided adhesive and/or screw holes.

6. Insert the end wires of each sign module row into the T-tap splice connector, and clamp the other end of the connector onto the main line. The splice connectors eliminate the need to strip wire insulation.

7. Use double-sided foam tape to secure each T-tap splice connector to the inside of your sign.

8. Reattach your sign’s front cover.

9. Connect the main line to your power supply, wire the supply into your electrical system, and restore power to the area.

For technical questions, don’t hesitate to call us toll free at 866-590-3533. Our customer service and technical support teams are available from 8:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. CDT Monday-Thursday and 8:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. CDT on Friday.