Using air ducts in order to distribute both heated and cooled air throughout a building is one of the most common ways in which homeowners choose to keep their homes comfortable all year long. Doing so, of course, means that your air ducts are in play throughout the entire year. Are you certain that yours are in the condition necessary to perform their job precisely as intended? If not, give FB Electrical Services a call today. We are more than happy to thoroughly test your air ducts so that you know what kind of shape they are in. Once we have completed your duct testing in Somerville, we can go about resolving any problems that we may find with your air ducts. That way, you can heat and cool your home at peak performance and efficiency levels.

When you stop and think about it, you have likely seen very little of your air duct system. For the most part, your ductwork is hidden from view. The last thing that you want to do, though, in terms of your ductwork, is to develop an “out of sight, out of mind” attitude in regards to their condition. Leaky ductwork is one of the main sources of energy loss and low efficiency in many homes, and it is also one that professional duct testing can help to pinpoint the source of. When we test your air ducts, we can determine with certainty if it is compromised, and we’ll have the information we need in order to right whatever wrongs we may find.

Customers are always inquiring about the cost of solar panels. Here, we’ll break down the answer to that question.

First of all, the panels themselves can cost anywhere between $3,000 and $10,000 depending on your demands and the size of the array. This is easily the most quantifiable part of the equation. This is often somewhere around half of the full cost of a solar installation.

The panels don’t do much good without the power inverter that allows you to connect to the power grid and they can cost anywhere between $1,000 and $3,000.

There are also a variety of related connecting pieces to make the whole thing work properly.

Then we move on to the “soft” goods that are part of the installation. Namely, the installation itself. The cost of installation often hovers somewhere around 25 percent of solar panels cost. Installation isn’t just the act of putting panels on your roof. Preparing the roof to accept the mounting system can take time.

And once the array is installed, you have to pay for permits and inspections for the array to be part of your home. These can run you a few thousand dollars. All in all, solar installation can cost anywhere between $10,000 and $40,000.

And the cost doesn’t stop there. Regular maintenance is recommended to keep your array running at optimal performance.

But you can compare these costs to the greater cost of using traditional power from the municipal grid, which continues to rise every year. Solar power grows cheaper all the time and is an incredible way to reduce your long-term expenses.

If you look at these numbers and wonder how you can make any of this a reality, give us a call so we can discuss financing options. Some customers are eligible for quite generous agreements that let them get started with a solar array almost immediately. That could be you, so don’t hesitate to give us a call.

A lot of time we are asked what is the equivalent LED product to convert from Metal Halide, High Pressure Sodium or Mercury Vapor. And a lot of time, we have a product in mind that works based on past experience. But how did we come up with that product, and how did we make the original decision on what was the proper replacement?

There’s a lot of science that goes into light, color, quality, and each light had it’s own characteristics. For example, it takes less LED to replace High Pressure Sodium than it takes to replace Metal Halide. And we are talking a lot more than just lumens. We are talking about color temperature, quality of light and something called photopic / scotopic lumens.

In the world of lighting, we measure foot candles with a light meter, this is called a photopic measurement. The light meter picks up everything, including spectrum’s that are invisible to us. Now, we humans see things to, and this is called scotopic lumens. Our rods and cones read and interpret light. And it does so differently than what a light meter does. So it is not uncommon when we demo a LED Light against a HPS light or Metal Halide, we first ask “Which is brighter” before we show the light meter reading. It leaves a few people scratching their heads. Well, that’s the science of of it all, and fortunately there is some handy tables called SP ratios that allow us to take the lumens of a particular light (photopic lumens) and multiply it by the S/P ratio to get the scotopic lumens equivalent.

For example, the S/P ratio for High Pressure Sodium is 0.40. The S/P ratio for LED at 5000K is 1.8. So if you take 40,000 lumens of HPS and multiply it 0.4, the effective scotopic lumens is 16,000. To get the same amount of lumens from LED, take the 16,000 and divide it by the S/P ratio and you get 8888 lumens. So the 8888 lumens of LED is the photopic measurement, the 16,000 LED lumens is the scotopic lumens measurement. So in an nutshell, you need 8,888 lumens of LED to replace 40,000 lumens of HPS from a scotopic point of view.

Here is a handy chart of common lights and ratios for you to use.