One of the main stays in Industrial and Commercial Lighting has been the Metal Halide Bulb. It is common in Indoor Fixtures, such as High Bays, Canopy Lights, Garage Lights and Low Bays. It is

So you have a Metal Halide (or even High Pressure Sodium) light, and you want to convert to LED. You’ve done your research, you’ve been inundated with marketing materials that tell you what is the most important thing to consider (coincidentally it probably is something they think is important). And now you are left to make a decision. New or retrofit? What new versus retrofit. We sell both. Our retrofits perform as well if not better than new fixtures, but not all retrofit kits can make that claim. However, if your fixtures are old, leak, and have seen their better days, then by all means replace them. It does not make sense to buy a new fixture that includes a retrofit kit inside of it like some vendors will try and sell you. The engineering of some of the new fixtures are fantastic. However, the real reason you would want to consider retrofitting is because you have a significant investment in fixtures. Why not keep that investment? Retrofitting is extremely cost effective, especially our Look for the DLC Premium Symbol, it’s different than the DLC Standard symbol. And that gives you the quick notification that the light you are looking at is the most efficient.

And why does that matter. It’s simple. It will save you a lot more money. Let me do three comparisons for you. First a retrofit kit designed at 97 lumens per watt to replace a 400W Metal Halide bulb, a second at 102 lumens per watt and ours at 155 lumens per watt. Lets keep everything else the same. Cost of electricity, hours of use. The only thing different you will notice is the watts consumed and the lumens produced. For the record, our retrofit kit uses the least amount of energy in this test BUT also produces the most amount of light. We will use 12 hours a day operating time and .12 kw.h electricity cost

Calculation 1: 97 lumens per watt retrofit head, 135 watts, 13164 lumens

Savings per fixture per year over 400 watt Metal Halide: $170.82

Calculation 2: 102 lumens per watt retrofit head, 143 watts, 14600 lumens

Savings per fixture per year over 400 watt Metal Halide: $166.62

OK, so between the competitor options, you are neck and neck, the difference is so minimal you can make your decision based on whose website you like more

Calculation 3: 155 lumens per watt retrofit head, 100 watts, 15,776 lumens (this is our LED Retrofit Kit)

Savings per fixture per year over 400 watt Metal Halide: $189.22

So there is clearly a $18.40 savings over the first LED retrofit option and a $22.60 savings per fixture over the second LED Retrofit option. And, we produce more light!

We have 3 mini LED Retrofit Kits, 30W, 45W and 60W designed to replace up to 250W Metal Halide. We have 3 standard sized retrofit kits, 75W, 100W and 120W designed to replace from 250 Watt to 400 Watt Metal Halide. We have 2 Large Retrofit Kits, 150W and 200W, designed to provide more light than a 400W Metal Halide up to 750W Metal Halide. And we have 3 Extra Large retrofit kits, 280W, 320W and 350W, designed to replace 1000W Metal Halide.

Over time, a home that was once top-of-the-line can find itself behind the times. While this might only be a mild concern in terms of convenience, the state of your electrical circuits can potentially be a source of trouble if they are found to be below present day recognized standards. However, an electrician in Santa Monica can certainly evaluate the state of your home’s electrical components and recommend a course of action. Generally speaking, homes that are more than 40 or 50 years are more likely to need an electrical safety evaluation.

Depending on the age of your home, you may need to have some or all of your electrical outlets replaced. Many older homes do not have updated three-prong outlets, and instead might have the older style two prong outlets. Today’s appliances require a third prong for grounding. Besides this, over time wiring can become damaged, and the demands placed on your home’s older electrical system can simply be too much for an older system to bear.

If you need an electrician in Santa Monica to help you determine the electrical safety of your home, a strong list of references and great internet reviews are a good jumping off point for locating an electrician to help you solve any of the most common problems that older homes face.

The Electric Connection is a dependable electrical contracting company that can send a knowledgeable Santa Monica Electrician to your home or business. We will be happy to help you compare your home to today’s electrical standards, examine your home thoroughly, and evaluate the ability of your electrical system to perform under typical conditions as well as any unusually high demand situations.

Visit TheElectricConnection.com for more information and to speak with someone about your home’s electrical system. If you are unsure about exactly what types of upgrades or repairs you might need, we can easily help you out.

A whole-house generator offers you the chance to go about your daily routine in relative normality, even when the power from the electric grid is cut out. Unlike portable generators, into which you must plug chosen appliances directly, a whole-house generator is actually hardwired directly into your home’s electrical system. When the power goes out, you can either start up this generator or, if equipped with an automatic transfer switch, wait for it to start itself up within moments. Once it does, you’ll be able to run your appliances and HVAC systems, as well as your gadgets and electronics, with the same ease and convenience as if the power were on. The capabilities of your whole-house generator, and its capacity to support systems of various electrical needs, will depend upon its size and quality of installation. We’ll make sure that you have what you need to keep your home up and running.

A portable generator may run on gasoline, but this is not the right fuel for a whole-house generator. These larger generators may take diesel fuel or run on propane, both of which will have to be stored on site, or you can opt for a whole-house generator fueled by natural gas, which is piped directly to the system. Contact a member of our staff to discuss your options so that you can choose your generator with well-deserved confidence.