At Pezz Electrical Services LLC, safety is our number one priority. Our services include safety inspections for heating and electrical equipment alike, which becomes more and more important as winter approaches. Follow these steps to keep your home safe for the winter, and call our friendly team to learn more.

Winterize your home to prevent chilly temperatures and burst pipes. Keep heat from moving out of the home by sealing air leaks, applying weather stripping or caulking to areas around doors and windows.

Make sure heat can reach all of the pipes in your home. Keep doors open throughout the house, along with cupboards where exposed piping may be. Do not block off vents, and insulate all exposed pipes in and out of the home. Clean out roof gutters and repair any leaks in the roof long before winter picks up.

Your gas heater should vent any combustion byproducts—like carbon monoxide (CO)—safely to the outdoors. While today’s heaters have safety switches to shut down the heater in case this doesn’t happen, a safety switch could fail.

Be sure you schedule an appointment with a heating maintenance technician every year, as early in the winter or fall as possible. Keep the air filter clean and replace it monthly.

Test carbon monoxide detectors and smoke detectors monthly as well. If you do not have these devices throughout the home, now is the time to take this step to enhance safety and give you peace of mind. Replace CO detectors every 5-7 years and smoke detectors every 10 years. Change the batteries every 6 months.

If your power went out in the middle of a cold winter day or night, would you have a backup plan? Elderly family members and children often cannot get by without heat, and it could be dangerous. We recommend a whole-house generator, or a portable model at the very least, or that you have a backup plan and a place to stay, just in case.

There are several different types of medium voltage earthing systems. These systems can be differentiated by using the neutral point connection method. They are different in the way that they operate and each of them has its own pros and cons. These earthing systems in medium voltage include the likes of:

The functioning of each differs from the other. They also have various applications. Let’s have a look at each system at a time:

In this one, there is no electrical connection between the earth and the neutral point except for the devices that are used for measurement or protection. There is high impedance inserted between the earth and the neutral point. There is no switching on occurrence of the first insulation fault. It is therefore important to carry out permanent insulation monitoring, show the first insulation fault and locate and clear the first insulation fault.

Pros and cons: The advantage of using this one is that it provides services by tripping only when the second fault occurs which is subject to the capacity of the network not leading to a high earth fault current which would be dangerous for people when the first fault occurs. It has its demerits. There is the risk of high internal over-voltages. Insulation monitoring is also compulsory as well as the presence of maintenance personnel who will be monitoring and locating the first fault during use.

It is also known as direct earthing. It has a connection between the earth and the neutral point. Upon first insulation fault occurrence compulsory switching must be done. It is significantly different from the above mentioned unearthed neutral.

Pros and cons: This system reduces risk of over-voltage occurring and also authorizes the use of equipment with a normal phase to earth insulating level. On the other hand, there is mandatory tripping upon occurrence of the first fault. The touch voltages developed are very high and this poses a high risk for the personnel while the fault lasts. Differential protection devices must be used so that the clearance time of the fault is as short as possible.

This system requires a resistor to be inserted between the neutral point and the earth. It is also known as limiting resistance earthing. Their operating technique is quite straightforward. Switching must be done upon the occurrence of the first fault.

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We all know or at least heard that converting from Metal Halide (High Intensity Discharge) to LED will save you money.

But how much? Are there any other reasons or difference you should know about?

In this article, we break down all the factors that you should be aware of before making a decision to convert from Metal Halide to LED. Here are the 9 reasons we think LED wins over Metal Halide.

Let’s take a look at the information on a typical 400 watt metal halide bulb. While specifications may vary, a visit to a popular online website that sells Metal Halide bulbs shows that a brand new bulb has the following specifications:

We have just as many customers wanting to convert to LED because of maintenance savings as they do for energy savings. Think about what we discussed, over the life of the LED retrofit kit, a customer would have to do 5-6 Metal Halide replacements. The higher the installation height, the higher the cost of replacement. And if you have a facility loaded with lights, this becomes a significant budget amount every year that you must take into consideration. Now, we know that reduced maintenance time on lights does not translate into dollars saved because it is highly unlikely that people will lose their jobs over the fact there is much less work to do. However, these people will have time to now work on things that matter, like fixing the machines that make the company money instead on replacing lights that cost the company money.

When you take a measurement of light with a light meter, it reads lumens. And this measurement of all the lights that contribute to the light at that location creates a measurement called foot candles. But let’s think about that light that is being measured. Metal Halide creates all sorts of light, in all spectrum’s, visible or otherwise. This includes UV and IR spectrum’s, visible to the measuring device but not visible to the human eye. LED, on the other hand, does not produce UV and IR. Therefore, its readings using the same light meter is only picking up visible spectrum’s.

So there is a fun little test you can do. Have 2 light sources, LED and Metal Halide. And first ask, which one is brighter? And if the right LED source was selected, they should say LED. And then use a light meter, and the light meter may say the Metal Halide area is producing more foot candles. And so now you know part of the reason, but wait, there’s 2 other pieces of information you need to know.

Click here to see our infographic on Retrofitting vs Replacing.

Conclusion