The seasons are finally beginning to shift, bringing us (somewhat) cooler weather and a few unique activities. As we settle into fall, our experts at Hoffman Electrical would like to take a moment to clue you in on some potential electrical dangers unique to the season.

To our team, the only thing more important than our service is your safety! Electrical appliances and tools are indispensable these days, but without the proper care, understanding, and preparation, you could be looking at some serious injuries. To avoid risks and keep your home safe, keep up with these safety notes!

These tips and points are really quick and simple, so don’t worry about some involved and frustrating nonsense. For the most part, it’s all about being prepared and staying wary of potential threats:

Electricity exists everywhere, from high voltage power lines to phones and computers. Understanding the basics of how it works remains essential to using it safely and efficiently.

When electricity travels from a positive lead to a negative lead in a circuit powered by a battery, it is considered direct current. This type of current powers electronics, LED lights, and cars. Alternating current is generated from rotation, usually by a generator. The direction of the current and the voltage flips as the generator completes a rotation. The faster the generator spins, the faster the flipping of current direction occurs. In North America, the typical frequency of AC power is 60hz or 60 alternations per second. The advantage of AC power is that the voltage can be stepped up easily by use of a transformer, which allows high voltage transmission. AC power is also useful for electric motors.

Specifically, power is a measure of energy usage over time. The standard unit of power is the watt and calculated as P (watts) = V (volts) x I (amps). Utility companies sell electricity in units of kW*h (kilowatt hours), which is simply one kilowatt of power delivered continuously over one hour.

If you’re dying to install your new instructions for how to install a light bar. These instructions include options for installations with or without a wire harness and for connecting to existing LED lights. Installation will vary based on the type of vehicle, existing lighting setup, and chosen wiring method, but these instructions can serve to give you a general idea of the process. Light bar mounting instructions are also available and are listed by WH-DTS10, WWH-DTD30; (ATP) WH-ATPD20, sdoptional mounting brackets; be sure not to overtighten the hardware (you will need to adjust it in step 7).

3. Route the lighting side of the wiring harness from the battery to the light in a safe, secure manner. Connect the harness to the light. Be sure to avoid heat sources and any moving parts while running your wires. Prolonged chafing of the wires may lead to a short in the circuit. Typically, following the vehicle manufacturer’s wiring harness is a safe path to follow. Some lights may not have DT or ATP connections on them, but the connectors can be added from the harness kit or purchased separately (ATP-FPT).

4. Continue to route the switch portion of the harness to the desired location of the switch. The switch may need to be unplugged from the harness to make routing of the harness easier. An optional remote-controlled switch (RS-x) are also available with different legends.

5. Connect the black (ground) wire with the large ring terminal from the harness to the negative battery terminal. Connect the red (power) wire with the large ring terminal from the harness to the positive battery terminal.

6. Secure the relay to a suitable location, and test the light to make sure the circuit works.

7. Finally, aim the light in the desired direction, and tighten all mounting hardware.

3. Connect the black ground wire of the new light to the ground wire of the old light with solder and heat shrink tubing (PSC-x). Connect the red power wire of the new light to the power wire of the old light.

4. If the new LED work light or off-road light bar has an ATP or DT connector that you wish to utilize, corresponding ATP (DT-MPT) pigtails are available.

5. Finally, aim the lights in the proper direction, and tighten all mounting hardware.

1. Find a suitable mounting location that will allow for running wires and mounting the LED light bar. Mark where your holes will be for the light bar brackets or mounting feet. Check behind drilling locations to ensure nothing will be damaged. Drill appropriate-sized holes.

2. Mount the lights with the provided hardware or with DT-MPT or RRS-SP, RRS-SPx, or RCS-RF25A) under your hood to speed up install time and avoid routing wires through your vehicle’s firewall. Route another run of red wire from the pigtail adapter (connected to the light) to the output terminal of the switch. Be sure to avoid heat sources and any moving parts while running your wires. Prolonged chafing of the wires may lead to a short in the circuit. Typically, following the vehicle manufacturer’s wire harness is a safe path to follow.

4. Be sure to double-check for all obstructions and proper clearance. Drill an appropriate sized hole for the switch, and mount it.

5. Connect your black wire to the negative battery terminal. Connect your red wire to the switch input terminal and to the positive battery terminal with an appropriate-sized fuse holder (MAF-x) installed within 18 inches of the battery. You will have to cut your section of red wire to allow for the fuse holder to be installed between the switch and battery. Connect your other run of red wire to the switch output terminal.

6. Finally, aim the lights in the proper direction and tighten all mounting hardware.