Most new buildings are now using a variety of electrical and electronic equipment. As such, the contractors have to design a wiring schematic that will deliver power to a wide and diverse range of devices that include traditional and modern electrical loads.  The wiring must also provide a means of supplying power to the monitoring and control devices such as wireless sensors, thermostats, automatic light controls, thermostats, the IoT, and other web-based technologies.

The electrical requirements will vary from one building to another and may include a combination of the following components:

The type and use of a building structure influences the type of wiring to use. And the building owner and electrical contractor should consider current and future power requirements when determining the size of conductors, raceways, protective gear and other necessities.

We offer photocontrol LED canopy lights for security lighting, parking garage lighting, gas station lighting, low-bay warehouse lighting, drive-thru lighting, and more. Using powerful LEDs, the light fixtures emit 9,000 lumens of bright natural white light.

The 100-watt LED canopy lights are equivalent replacements for 400-watt metal-halide (MH) fixtures but are designed to last three times longer. A photocontrol option is available to lengthen LED life span even further. The tork light-detecting sensors are designed to save energy by turning the light fixtures off during daytime hours. Shoppers can choose either a 120V AC or 208-277V AC tork sensor for the photocontrol fixtures.

These weatherproof LED lights are constructed of dark bronze die cast aluminum housings and shatterproof polycarbonate lenses. The LED canopy lights operate within a wide 90-277V AC range. Each surface-mount LED canopy light is equipped with a Mean Well constant-current driver as well as side and rear knock-outs that allow for various wiring options. A hassle-free five-year warranty fully protects against factory defects and malfunctions.

If you have questions, don’t hesitate to call us toll free at 866-590-3533. Our customer service and technical support teams are available from 8:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. CDT Monday-Thursday and 8:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. CDT on Friday.

Overlamping is when a lamp-holder socket has a bulb with a higher wattage than the socket is designed for. Not every lamp-holder socket in your home is rated for the commonly used 100-watt incandescent light bulbs. This is a code violation and a highly dangerous fire hazard.

For instance, if you connect a100-watt light bulb into a 75-watt lamp-holder socket, the intense heat coming from the bulb can melt or scorch the socket, potentially exposing the electrical wires underneath. This is a possible fire hazard as it increases the risk of arcing. Arcing is when sparks jump through the air from one wire to another, and research has shown that it is one of the most common causes of electrical fires.

The United States system of safety standards requires that electrical equipment be listed. Listing is a tool used to facilitate acceptance of electrical equipment. Most lamp holders are listed up to a particular wattage depending on the type of fixture used. This rating is derived from things such as the types of materials used in the construction of the fitting as well as where it will be placed. This causes varying levels of wattage, although most common lamp holder sockets are rated 75 watt.

You may find that some sockets in and around your home are listed at 40 watts or even 25 watts. An electrician can test the sockets in your home and confirm the maximum wattage for each one.

Most experts agree that using a bulb with a maximum wattage of 75 watts is the safest option, but you can always ask your electrician for help to be certain. Modern high-efficiency lamps are much safer because the majority do not exceed 75 watts of energy consumption. For older and unmarked fixtures, it is best to use a 60-watt bulb instead.

If you notice a lamp-holder socket in or around your home that looks as if it is scorched or melted, it is best to ask a professional for help before using it. If you would rather not seek an electrician’s assistance and choose to do the repairs yourself, ensure that you have switched off the electricity at the mains and that you have the correct tools for the job.

Tube lights are found in many applications and environments such as office buildings, hallways, garages, and really anywhere that has a low and flat ceiling. Although fluorescent tubes contain small amounts of mercury and isn’t a whole lot, you still want to avoid the breaking of a fluorescent tube and any exposure to mercury if possible.

Whether you are simply replacing a burnt out fluorescent tube with a new one or are switching over to a new technology (such as LED), there is a proper way to do it. By following these steps along with others that you may find, you will allow yourself to reduce risk of harm for yourself, staff, or whoever is the one physically replacing the tube lights.

Let’s answer some common questions and issues that people seem to face when tasked with this issue of replacing mercury filled fluorescent tubes…

By recycling rather than simply throwing away your tube lights, you opt-in for the environmentally friendly route of switching out old tubes. If you choose not to recycle, you are allowing toxic mercury to freely enter the environment, which of course is not good.

Not only do you prevent mercury from freely entering the environment by recycling, but you also reduce waste. How exactly? Part of the tube is reused for new tubes that will be resold and used. This allows for less waste and this goes back to the saying “Reduce, Reused, Recycle.” So by taking part of fluorescent tube recycling, you allow the process of recycling to continue and prevent waste from entering the landfill!

When taking your tubes out to bring for recycling, this is probably the most difficult step you need to be most cautious with. The best option you have is to be prepared and know what to do if things go “south” as they like to say.

Here is what you can do to prepare for the removal of fluorescent fixtures:

And for one thing that you should always remember for dealing with a broken tube is this: NEVER VACUUM. By vacuuming, you make glass particles go airborne and that is a highly dangerous situation to be in.

For more tips on how to clean up a broken fluorescent or CFL lights, using this tool from Earth911. It allows you to search what you need to recycle and where you are located. So you go to that tool, type in ‘fluorescent’ or ‘CFL’ along with your location and you will surely come across the closest place to recycle fluorescent tubes (along with really anything else you may want to recycle).

If you are in the process of disposing and recycling your fluorescent tubes, what is going in there to replace the ones you are removing? If the answer is “more fluorescent tubes,” may we ask why?