As much as some good task lighting and a ceiling full of recessed cans will make a room come alive, there’s nothing like airy, natural light. You can change your home’s color, its style, and even its structure, but when it comes to the amount of sun you get, you can rarely change much. How much natural light you home receives depends on so many different factors both in and outside of your house – the direction your home faces, the topography and structures around, the number of windows you have – these can be costly or just impossible to fix.

So, when you’re on the market for a new house, be sure to consider the lighting potential of any dwelling – lest you end up with a dungeon, or an oven.

Here are some questions to keep in mind when scoping out a new property:

Normally, south-facing homes get sun at the front of the house, and for most of the day. They tend to be brighter and warmer. A house that faces north gets light at the back and is cooler and darker. This may be especially important to note depending on your climate. When it’s cool most of the year, you may want a house that’s naturally a little warmer, if it’s warm for most of the year, you may prefer a house that doesn’t make you cook.

Also be sure to take a look around your property and note what could potentially affect your light. Does your house face an open field, or another row of houses? Are you at the base of a hill that will cast a shadow for most of the day, or at the top, almost always exposed to sunlight? These factors will influence the brightness in your home, and also the temperature.

Once your house is built, it can be costly and time-consuming to add or remove windows. So, before taking the plunge and becoming a home owner, make sure to consider the size, shape, and placement of your windows, and what that means for the home’s natural light levels.

Are there large trees close to the house blocking out the light? Will a close-by lake reflect directly into your windows? Are the windows crazy tiny or just too big? Be sure to consider modifications – window coverings you’ll have to buy, foliage you’ll have to trim – and whether or not they would make a difference.

There are instances where NEC and other regulators recommend dedicated circuits for certain loads. Typical loads to put on individual branch circuits include sensitive electronic equipment such as computers. In addition, water heating systems, large appliances, and other high capacity loads that zap power require a dedicated circuit.

Run cables all the way to the main service panel and avoid connecting to other existing circuits. The same conductor size should be used throughout the branch circuit.

Electric water heaters, HVAC equipment, hot tubs and other appliances should each have a nearby disconnect that is easily visible and accessible. The power disconnect can be provided by the main or sub panel breaker, a dedicated switch, or a power cord that can be unplugged.

The branch circuits should have adequate current carrying capacity, adequate and grounding.

Typical branch currents include:

We’ve recently added a new explosion-proof light for use in granaries, paint booths, mills, mines, oil refineries, auto shops, marine vessels, shipyards, and other hazardous locations.

This LED light is listed as UL1598 for wet locations and UL1598A for outdoor marine applications. It is classified as UL844 and meets National Electric Code—NFPA 70, article 500—requirements in the U.S. for Class 1 Division 1 (groups C and D), Class 1 Division 2 (groups A, B, C, and D), and Class 2 Division 2 (groups F and G) hazardous locations. The light fixture meets IECEx Zone 1, 2, 21, and 22 requirements for safe operation around combustible gas and dust.

Designed to replace 320-watt metal-halide (MH) fixtures with comparable output—the 100-watt LED explosion-proof light emits 13,000 lumens of natural white illumination. This weatherproof LED fixture operates within a 100-277V AC range and is built to last five times longer than MH lights.

The durably constructed light has a vibration-resistant anodized aluminum housing that prevents the release of sparks from internal components. The die cast housing is also powder coated for corrosion resistance and has a removable back plate for access to the constant-current driver, which is sealed with a silicone gasket. LEDs are protected by a tempered glass lens.

A conduit is required for installation, and the fixture has two openings for input and output connections. The LED explosion-proof light can be pole mounted or mounted to a wall, floor, or ceiling with its included bracket. A five-year warranty protects against any manufacturer defects or malfunctions.