Understanding common household light bulb shapes, sizes, and styles is important whether you’re converting outdated incandescent fixtures into energy-efficient ones or using LED bulbs for new-construction applications. Every light bulb has identifying characteristics that are represented by a letter or series of letters and a number; these are known as light bulb codes. The letter or letters in a bulb code indicate either shape or special features such as reflector type. Numbers in a bulb code indicate size in millimeters or eighths of an inch. These codes will tell you if a bulb will fit in your fixture and if it’s the right shape.

For every light fixture or application, there’s going to be a specific bulb or light bulb shape that will fit best and provide the right type of light. If you understand bulb codes, it’s easy to look at a light fixture and know right away what kind of bulb you’ll need.

Let’s talk about light bulb groups, their bulb codes, and what applications those bulbs are typically used for.

Standard/arbitrary (A) bulbs are the most widely used and thought of when it comes to household lighting. These bulbs work well for a variety of applications, such as ceiling lights, lamps, vanity lights, kitchen lights, closet lights, porch light fixtures, and so many more.

Numbers in each code refer to the bulb’s diameter in one-eighths of an inch.

A15 bulb: 15/8 = 1-7/8″ diameter

A19 bulb: 19/8 = 2-3/8″ diameter

A21 bulb: 21/8 = 2-5/8″ diameter

A25 bulb: 25/8 = 3-1/8″ diameter

Most common base types:

Globe (G) bulbs have a full, round shape and are available in various sizes. They can be used for many applications throughout the home, such as foyer lights, kitchen lights, chandeliers, and ornamental fixtures. The most common type is the large G30 bulb, which is used in bathroom and makeup vanities.

Depending on the bulb, numbers in each code can refer to the bulb’s diameter in one-eighths of an inch or in millimeters.

G11 bulb: 11/8 = 1-3/8″ diameter

G14 bulb: 14/8 = 1-3/4″ diameter

G16/G50: 16/8 = 2″ diameter

G60: 60 millimeters = 2-3/8″ diameter

G25/G80: 80 millimeters = 3-9/64″ diameter

G30: 30/8 = 3-3/4″ diameter

Most common base types:

All of the bulbs in these groups resemble the shape of a candle flame and are often referred to as candle bulbs. Conical (C) bulbs are shaped like a cone. Conical angular (CA) bulbs are shaped like a cone but have a bent tip. Blunt-tip (B) bulbs are very similar to C-type bulbs but have more of a torpedo or bullet shape. These bulbs can be used in chandeliers, wall sconces, pendant lights, night lights, decorative light strands, holiday light strands, and other decorative home lighting applications.

Numbers in each code refer to the bulb’s diameter in one-eighths of an inch.

B10 bulb: 10/8 = 1-1/4″ diameter

CA10 bulb: 10/8 = 1-1/4″ diameter

C7 bulb: 7/8 = 7/8″ diameter

C9 bulb: 9/8 = 1-1/8″ diameter

C15 bulb: 15/8 = 1-7/8″ diameter

Most common base types:

BR stands for bulged reflector. Traditionally, the inside surface of an incandescent BR bulb is covered in reflector material that is used to gather and cast a wide beam of light away from the bulb. LED BR bulbs don’t require the reflector material. These bulbs can have a frosted, clear, or patterned dome-shaped lens that diffuses light and provides a gradual fade into nonilluminated areas. BR bulbs also produce less shadows when compared to PAR bulbs. They’re a bit longer than PAR bulbs and tend to protrude from light housings but are used in similar applications, such as track lights, recessed lights, display lights, or can lights.

BR20 bulbs are often referred to as R20 but have the same characteristics of other BR bulb types. The R stands for reflector.

Numbers in each code refer to the bulb’s diameter in one-eighths of an inch.

BR20/R20 bulb: 20/8 = 2-1/2″ diameter

BR30 bulb: 30/8 = 3-3/4″ diameter

BR40 bulb: 40/8 = 5″ diameter

Most common base type:

Multifaceted reflector (MR) bulbs are small in size with a reflective, faceted interior. The facets create a concentrated beam of light that can be displayed in a narrow spot or wide flood beam pattern. Because of the directional light they provide, MR LED bulbs don’t require the facets but often still have them. These bulbs are available in a variety of colors and can be used for many applications, including track lighting, recessed lighting, desk lights, and display case lighting. Many MR bulbs operate on low-voltage wiring systems, which makes them great for outdoor and landscape applications such as driveway lights, path lights, gazebo lights, paver lights, and malibu lights that have weatherproof housings.

Numbers in each code refer to the bulb’s diameter in one-eighths of an inch.

MR11 bulb: 11/8 = 1-3/8″ diameter

MR16 bulb: 16/8 = 2″ diameter

Most common base types:

Tubular (T) bulbs come in a variety of lengths and widths. Depending on their size, these bulbs can be used in applications ranging from chandeliers, wall sconces, and pendant lights to basement and garage troffer light fixtures.

Numbers in each code refer to the bulb’s diameter in one-eighths of an inch.

T7 bulb: 7/8 = 7/8″ diameter

T8 bulb: 8/8 = 1″ diameter

T10 bulb: 10/8 = 1-1/4″ diameter

T14 bulb: 14/8 = 1-3/4″ diameter

Most common base types:

In our previous blog, we covered some of the benefits your home may enjoy by installing outdoor lighting, such as flood lights or accent lighting; however, running permanent electrical to the corners of your property is more complicated than just draping an extension cord to the desired lighting area. Often, lighting and other external electrical elements require electrical trenching to safely run power lines underground, and the season for safely and easily digging these trenches is quickly drawing to a close.

There’s never a good time to dig up your yard, but fall is far from the worst time. By choosing to install necessary subterranean power lines during the fall, you can enjoy these benefits:

Getting your yard equipped with subterranean wiring is no small feat: It requires careful planning and expert execution. Between local and regional zoning codes, inspection parameters and availability, and overall safety and execution of the work, each electrical trenching is a big job that requires expertise and knowledge. Some of the things our Des Moines electricians offer homeowners looking for electrical trenching include:

Reach out to Electrical Gurus today, before winter sets in and causes delays in your outdoor plans! By getting a jump on the work with our expert electricians, your yard will be ready to go well before summer comes.

Get in touch with our Des Moines electricians today!

Remodeling a kitchen or bathroom can be daunting.  Do I do it myself or do I get help from the professionals?  These are important questions to ask yourself because if you don’t know exactly what you’re doing a remodel job can become an exercise in frustration costing more time and money than you originally planned.

There are many things to think about:

If the remodel is being professionally done then consider:

If you’re doing the remodel yourself consider:

If you live in the United States, you’re likely well-familiar with our typical wall-socket setup. Your plug has two flat pieces of metal roughly half of an inch wide, with one side sometimes being slightly wider than the other. Your wall socket has two slots that match this, with one side also being slightly larger than the other. However, sometimes there’s a variance: some plugs have a third prong below and between the normal two, and most electrical sockets also have a third hole to match this plug. What’s the difference between these two types of plugs and is one better than the other?

To put it simply, yes, one is better than the other. When it comes to electrical plugs, the old adage “less is more” does not apply—the three-prong plug is far better than a two-prong. To learn why, let’s discuss the difference between the two.

In order for electricity to flow, you must complete a circuit. A circuit essentially is a connection from your power source to the device, and then from the device back to the power source. The line that brings power from the power source to the device is called your “hot wire”, which is most often red and comes off the positive terminal (noted by the large “+” sign). The line that then returns from the device to the terminal, usually a black wire connected to a “-“ sign, is known as the “neutral wire.” A plug must have both of these lines in order to work.

However, the third prong in a three-prong plug is a “ground” plug, which dramatically improves safety. When an unexpected burst of electricity happens, such a short in the device or a surge from your power supply, the ground plug will take that abundance of additional electricity and move it away from the device and down into the ground where it is safe. This prevents your device from being overloaded which can cause overheating, sparking, and fires in addition to ruining it.

Three-prong plugs didn’t become the standard in homes in North America until the late 1960s. If you have a home that was constructed around this time or after, odds are your wall sockets are probably already of the three-prong variety. Two-prong plugs can work with three-prong sockets just fine, and you’ll rarely experience any issues.

However, if you have any old two-prong plugs, you’ll likely need your electrical system updated in order to upgrade to a three-prong setup. Properly installing ground wires can involve several hours of electrical work and even cutting into your walls in order to do so properly, so it’s a rather large undertaking. However, it’s by far the safest and most prudent option.

Another option that doesn’t involve tearing open your walls is to install a ground fault circuit interrupter outlet, otherwise known as a GFCI. These sockets are two-pronged, but feature a miniature circuit breaker that measures the resistance through a plug and mechanically shuts off when the risk of a shock is present. While this can help you avoid being shocked by a faulty device, there is still no ground wire present so your electronics are not protected from a power surge.