Insect Vision: Ultraviolet, Color, and LED Light, Marianne Shockley Cruz and Rebecca Lindner from the University of Georgia’s Department of Entomology write, “Experimental work supports the idea that color perception exists in insects and that they are especially responsive to the shorter wavelengths of the visible spectrum and UV light.” Wavelengths are measured in nanometers, and shorter wavelengths of light (less than 550 nanometers) can indicate ultraviolet (UV), blue, or green colors. Cruz and Lindner also cite work that confirms the correlation between UV light from the sun and moon and how certain bugs navigate Earth. Another point to remember about bugs is that certain types, such as mosquitoes, are attracted to heat and have thermal receptors to help them find it. All of this information is helpful for determining why bugs flock to certain light sources.

The color that is emitted from a light source is important because of its ability to attract bugs. As previously stated, shorter wavelengths (UV, blue, and green light) are more visible to bugs than longer wavelengths (yellow, orange, and red light) and, therefore, will draw them closer. Incandescent, compact fluorescent (CFL), halogen, and high-intensity discharge (HID) lights emit UV radiation that is attractive to bugs, and since certain types of bugs navigate by UV light from the sun and moon, a closer, brighter source of UV light can disrupt their orientation and draw them in. LEDs produce very little to no UV light, which makes them less visible to bugs. However, it is still possible for an LED bulb to produce shorter wavelengths of light (bluish-white/cool white color), which will be more attractive to bugs. Therefore, when browsing for LED lights that will attract less bugs, it’s important to choose a fixture that emits more wavelengths that are above 550 nanometers, such as warm white, ultra warm white, or yellow lights.

CCT) instead of nanometers, it’s easy to tell if the bulb will be more or less visible to bugs. CCT is measured in Kelvin (K), and different temperatures on the Kelvin scale represent different colors. An LED bulb with a CCT below 3600K will emit warm or ultra warm white light that’s not easily seen by bugs. Bulbs with CCTs of 3600K and above will emit natural or cool white light that is more likely to attract bugs.

Incandescent, halogen, CFL, and HID bulbs waste most of the energy they consume—as much as 90 percent—in the form of heat. Bugs with thermal receptors can sense the heat released by these light sources. LED bulbs produce a minuscule amount of heat, which makes them less appealing to bugs.

Bug lights are simply light bulbs with a yellow coating that decreases the color temperature of emitted light. Because of the coating, bulbs will emit a peak wavelength of light that is around 550-600 nanometers. However, you don’t need a yellow-coated bulb to reduce the presence of bugs. LED lights that emit warm-colored illumination, such as yellow malibu light bulbs for landscape applications, or From top left to bottom right: incandescent bug light, yellow LED strip lights, yellow LED malibu light bulb installed in landscape fixture, and gold-tint LED filament bulbs

Ecologist Michael Justice performed an experiment to determine the type of residential light that attracts the least amount of bugs. He used six lighting types inside of an insect trap each night during the summer. Justice also made efforts to equalize the effects of weather and the moon’s irradiance. His LED Z-Bug Bulb™ from NEBO is a bug zapper and an LED bulb in one. The bulb emits white illumination from its top and ultraviolet (UV) light from its caged center. The UV light attracts mosquitoes and other insects toward the bulb’s high-voltage electric grid and kills them on contact.

Because different types of bugs see different wavelengths, it is never guaranteed that an LED light won’t attract them. However, most bugs are attracted to short wavelengths of light and are especially drawn to UV light; they can see it better, and some use it for navigation. Bulbs that emit more short wavelengths of light (cool white/bluish color) will attract more bugs. Lights that emit a majority of longer wavelengths (yellow/orange/red colors) are less visible. Heat can also draw bugs into an area. LED lights produce little to no UV light and a minuscule amount heat, which makes them less attractive to bugs—so long as they emit longer wavelengths of light.

We’re proud to announce the arrival of new high-CRI architectural retrofit LED downlights. The LED lights are available in a variety of sizes and wattages for applications ranging from retail, commercial, grocery store, hospital, and auditorium lighting to bathroom, basement, and kitchen lighting. Can light replacements have integral junction boxes with round and square knockouts, and architectural downlights are equipped with driver enclosure boxes. These energy-efficient LED lights can be easily wired to code and are IC rated for safe contact with insulation.

Your lights and appliances are working fine, so that means your wiring is too, right? Not so much. Seldom inspected after installation, the wiring in your home may need an update, especially if your home is more than 40 years old.

Installing sufficient wiring goes beyond safety. It also means enhancing your home’s functionality, reliability, and safety to keep up with today’s ever-increasing power needs. This applies not only to the installation of current electrical wiring, but wiring for your phone, Internet, cable, and more.

According to the NFPA (National Fire Prevention Association), faulty wiring is the leading cause for residential fires. The National Electric Code (NEC) updates electrical codes and standards for outlets and wiring every three years. Their mission is to keep up with technology designed to keep your home and family safe. Has the wiring in your home gotten any attention since the 2014 NEC code updates? Chances are it’s been far longer than that.   

Aluminum wiring used in the 60s and 70s, non-metallic wiring installed in the 40s and 50s, and knob and tube wiring in pre-1930s homes are well-known safety hazards, as are loose connections and frayed wires resulting from wear-and-tear.  

These are an enormous safety hazard – for you and your electronics. Without proper grounding, electrical excesses have nowhere to go but into your devices – or you – even if you have a surge protector. Reduce shock risks by rapidly addressing this sign of wiring that is way behind the times.

Identified by the “TEST” and “RESET” buttons on receptacles, GFCIs protect you from shock in high moisture areas. They are currently required in bathrooms, kitchens, laundry rooms, utility rooms, garages, spa/pool areas, unfinished crawlspaces/basements, and any areas outside of your home. If you are lacking these inexpensive, easy-to-install devices in any of these areas, you may be in for a shocking experience.

AFCIs prevent fire by acting as a circuit breaker, which disconnects in the event of a potentially dangerous arc. They are required in bedrooms in all 50 states, though some states require them in all circuits throughout the home.

Childproof outlets require equal pressure in all prongs simultaneously for electricity to flow. They cost pennies more than traditional outlets and are required in all newly built homes.

How many amps power your home? While 60 amps may have been sufficient in the past, today’s homes often need 100 to 200 amps to successfully operate the glut of large and technologically advanced appliances you use simultaneously, from mobile devices and flat screens to your refrigerator and air conditioner. Without an adequate power supply, you could end up damaging these sensitive items beyond repair.

Protect your family and home, ensuring the smooth, efficient operation of all things electrical while boosting the value of your property. Contact Mr. Electric® for an electrical safety and wiring inspection today.